Artist: Harry Nilsson
Album: Nilsson Schmilsson [1971]
Track: Coconut
Why: With coconuts for breakfast, Silvana at the hospital and me nearly throwing up in the shower because of all the pain from the tattoo I found this song quite suiting.

After a few long days at Kirsty it was finally time to fly to Samoa. Christchurch to Auckland only takes a bit over the hour but I had to wait in Auckland for 24 hours for the flight to Samoa. It was weird coming in to Samoa again. It’s been six years but it felt like it was two weeks ago. A few new building in the town centre and Outrigger have new owners and are now called Princess Tui Inn. This is I am staying at the moment and probably will for the rest of the time. Unfortunately since it’s so close to Christmas most tourists are on their way home to their families. When I checked in here it was only me and 72 year old Jack. A very odd American and anti American who travels around between Oz, New Zealand, Polynesia and other warm places. Even if he could be a bit much sometimes you got to admire him for i.e. going to senior club for the free food handed out by the church. A place where everyone goes around holding a bible, but not Jack, he is carrying his book by Darwin just for messing with people.

But within the next days some more people checked in and we rented a car together. First day I, Nina and Silvana took the car to some nice waterfalls and I wanted to see if I could find the crater lake again. Nina stayed in the car while Silvana and I took of. We only made it to the car park, which you only can access by foot unless you have a giant 4×4.At the car park there was a sign saying 1 hour to lake. And since no one used the track for a long time we figured it was best to head down to the beach instead, so we did.

The next day with the car Barbara came along. This time we headed straight to the beach but on the way back we tried out to reach the lake again. We got a lot further this time but sun was setting so we had to abort. Maybe it’s better to keep the mystic over it.

With no car the next day I tried out the local buses together with Silvana. It went quite well and we successfully jumped of outside Robert Louis Stevenson’s museum. We only took a short stroll around his mansion before we walked up to the sliding rocks nearby. This was not the sliding rocks I had been to before, well actually there were hardly any sliding rocks at all but still a very beautiful place with waterfalls and cooling pools. Silvana did find a sliding rock though, on the way up she slipped and got a nasty cut just under the knee. Luckily we had first aid to stop the bleeding. But it was deep so the rest of the day we spent at the hospital. 4 hours and 5 stitches later we were back at the hotel.

I tried to find Suluape earlier this week, his sons got a tattoo studio in Apia so I asked them how to find him. Unfortunately he was in Hawaii, but he would be back on Thursday but I couldn’t reach him until Saturday. I introduced myself and said I wanted a Samoan tattoo. He replied “sure, come over tomorrow at 10am”. After searching for him for almost a year this was the first time I spoke to him and he wanted me to be there tomorrow, it all went almost too quick. But the next day I took a taxi down to Faleasiu and Silvana came along. We asked several people on the road before we found his house. He invited us to one of the fale’s and I explained my idea and showed him some pictures. He didn’t say much, just took a firm grip on my arm and twisted it around for a couple of minutes. “This is a BIG job” he said and started to sort out his tools. After about an hour after we got there he started working on me. About two minutes later I was hoping it to be done, it wasn’t for a long while. It felt like he was hitting harder and harder every time *tap*tap*tack*tack*tuck*tuck*fuck*FUCK* Fuck that hurts. It was much worse than last time. Worst parts were probably around my elbow and the places around the armpit. The last ink he hammered in was the two thin lines going in towards the neck. These ones were the worst but I knew that they were last and after that he was finished. The time was now 6pm. I won’t be doing that again for a long long time. Thank you Silvana for keeping me company and for taking photos.